Virtual Trip – Upper Base Camp – Kanektok River with Dave Duncan and Sons – Alaska
We took off from Seattle’s SeaTac airport at 10:15 am. Seattle to Anchorage, Anchorage to Bethel, Bethel to Quinhagak. The planes got increasingly smaller as we neared our destination. At Bethel, we found the Grant Aviation vans Click for a helpful hint- they took us to their terminal to check in for our 30 minute flight to Quinhagak.
Though Susan and I made the complete trip in one day, many of the guests broke their travel into 2 days – Anchorage was the layover location of choice.
Our pilot (far left) greets us as we board his plane for the flight to Quinhagak. Grant Aviation was very professional, but very laid back and personabl
There is an abundance of water on the edge of the Tundra.
A small Yup’ik village can be seen in the distance.
Upon landing at Quinhagak airfield, we were met by Clint and Brad Duncan and their guide crew. All the bags were loaded into boats – not necessarily the boat you were in, but we were all going to the same place. It’s a long boat ride – almost 2 hours – to the upper base camp. We did make one stop about halfway to fill up with gas – and a very quick leg stretch stop. Then it was back on the river. These jet boats are very maneuverable which makes for a “Disneyland like” ride up the river. It was rather fun as they zigged and zagged up the winding river.
It didn’t rain on us, but it sure looked like it wanted to. We all had our raingear on just in case.
Five boats caravan to the Upper Base Camp.
Larry, Rankin and Mojo get ready for their boat ride to camp.
The guides load our bags into the boats.
As the caravan of boats pull up to camp, there are friendly camp staff (AKA fishing guides) waiting to unload our bags and help us take our things to our tents. Even in the wilds of Alaska – we instantly felt at home. Each tent had a fresh jug of water, 2 glasses and some bug spray (very thoughtful of them.) We used the water and glasses, but the bugs were not bad on our visit. If you kept your screen zipped shut, no mosquitoes could get in.
There were a few spots on the river where the bugs were buzzing, but for the most part they were not an issue.
We arrive at the upper base camp. It was a long ride, but fun – lots of things to see.
Susan opens up our tent.
We arrived at camp around 7 pm – dinner was served at 8 pm. They had a nice table set up for all the guests – a family style fare that added to the camaraderie of the guests.
Each night a different guide was the head cook. They were all surprisingly good. This was Mark’s night – Clint mentioned this was his first time as head cook. He did well – the stuffed pork chops were excellent – or else I was very hungry – probably both. Two thumbs up on the dinner.
Clint puts a stuffed pork chop on a plate as Mark gets ready to start serving. lt was a well stocked kitchen – everything a chef could want. It was easy to see they had been doing this a long time. The attention to detail was apparent as each meal was served.
Rankin and Larry sample some pre-dinner appetizers.
After dinner, Clint suggests we go down to the river and fish a little before bedtime. There is a nice riffle with some reds near the tailout. Susan and I started at the riffle and worked down. She was into Dollies or Arctic Char right away. It took me a little longer to get the hang of it, but after about 10 minutes I couldn’t keep them off my line. It took a bit longer to catch a Rainbow, but it was well worth it. It was not the biggest of the trip, but it sure was pretty and it was nice to get that first one.
This trout took a white egg sucking leach. One of the few I caught on something other than a mouse. Once I learned the ins and outs of mousing – that is all I wanted to do.
Susan holds my first trout of the trip. Saturday night at 11:00 PM. We stopped fishing because it was almost midnight and we knew we had a big day coming – not because it was dark.
Darrell works the riffle. It is almost midnight and we are fishing. This is truly the land of the midnight sun.
Rankin casts to some structure – he knows where the big ‘Bows hang out.
A hearty breakfast is served at 7 am each day. Coffee is ready before 6 – for early risers. The guides are ready by their boats at 8am – though if you want to go later they are very accommodating. I didn’t see anyone sleeping in this week.
Clint was our guide for day 1. He took us upriver – about a 15 minute run. We started fishing a small riffle for some Arctic Char. They are always a good warm up fish. Tough fighters, rather light biters (compared to trout) and very eager to take a fly – especially an egg pattern at this time of year.
The Arctic Char (which is a close relative to the Dolly Varden) is the Rodney Dangerfield of the fishing species – it doesn’t get the respect it deserves. Sometimes they are just too easy to catch up here. Once you get your timing down, learn how to feel the nibble and give a good quick hook set, you are in for quite a little battle. They don’t normally make a long run or jump, but they sure pull hard and are not a cinch to land. You catch – ten of these in a row and it’s time for a little break. They can wear out your arm after a while.
A beautiful Kanektok River sunrise.
We had a great sleep in the comfortable tents. It was a cool night – probably in the mid 50’s. Our rods were all set up and ready to grab for our first day of fishing.
Clint helps Susan land her first Arctic Char of the day.
It didn’t take long for us to latch into our main quarry – The Kanektok River Leopard Rainbow Trout. Photos do not do this magnificent trout justice. They are speckled with dark spots – hence the name and they have bright red sides. These are beefy creatures with broad shoulders. They are aggressive to the fly – both surface and subsurface presentations. They are one of the few trout in the world that will consistently eat a surface mouse.
Catching trout after trout on a mouse is an experience like no other.
Susan with a beautiful Leopard ‘Bow.
This rainbow is ready to land.
This is why we stop the boat and get out if we are going to take a fish photo.
Susan with a Chum Salmon. Some call them pretty, some call the ugly – I call them tough hard fighting machines. As they move up river, they take on their spawning colors. They develop large intimidating teeth that will help them protect their spawning beds. Their nickname “Dog Salmon” may come from these canine looking chompers. You certainly don’t want to put your hand in it’s mouth.
Sandy with a chum on his 6 weight.
Clint had to walk down the bank to land this Chum, as this guy wasn’t coming up river.
Though trout were are main target, you can never be quite sure what you will latch into on the Kanektok River. Catching a powerful Chum Salmon on a 6 weight rod is no small feat. Actually getting it on was not the hard part, it was the landing that was the challenge. It becomes a real team effort with the guide and angler working together to land these beasts.
Susan with a Chum Salmon. Some call them pretty, some call the ugly – I call them tough hard fighting machines. As they move up river, they take on their spawning colors. They develop large intimidating teeth that will help them protect their spawning beds. Their nickname “Dog Salmon” may come from these canine looking chompers. You certainly don’t want to put your hand in it’s mouth.
Sandy with a chum on his 6 weight.
Clint had to walk down the bank to land this Chum, as this guy wasn’t coming up river.
Though trout were are main target, you can never be quite sure what you will latch into on the Kanektok River. Catching a powerful Chum Salmon on a 6 weight rod is no small feat. Actually getting it on was not the hard part, it was the landing that was the challenge. It becomes a real team effort with the guide and angler working together to land these beasts.
The mouse pattern was my fly of choice for the Kanektok Rainbow. I know I could have probably hooked and landed more using a flesh/egg pattern, but there is nothing like the take you get when using a mouse.
After the cast toward structure, you want the mouse to “swim” – not too fast, not too slow. A small wake behind the mouse is perfect. Sometimes a little pop will help. It’s a lot like fishing poppers to bass, only not too much pop – more swim with a little pop added for emphasis… then get ready.
You are never sure what kind of take you will get – they come in all flavors. There is the dunk and grab. Here the trout comes up and appears to grab the tail and dunk it, The mouse pops back up with the trout waiting underneath for the mouse to struggle – then it attacks!! It is not unusual for the mouse to travel 10 feet or more after the initial grab before it really takes it.
Then there is the “Jaws” take. You see the wake coming – sometimes see a fin. Then it just devours the mouse.
Many times it is more subtle – a more common top water strike. Here the trout takes the mouse in and heads back down. The angler with patience and nerves of steel has the best chance here. You wait for a count of one – two – three then strike as hard as you can – the harder the better. If you don’t stick these trout with all your might, they won’t stay on long. Even if you do, there is no guarantee it will not come unbuttoned.
One of the many mouse patterns we used is shown above – this one tied by Clint proved especially deadly. I fished this same mouse for 2 days before losing it to a tree limb. You want to be aggressive with your casts – getting it close to shore or structure.
Sandy with a chum on his 6 weight.
The many salmon carcasses provide nutrients for the river and the fish.
Steam rises from this perfectly cooked prime rib. The quality of food was amazing. I would have been happy with a can of beef stew, but I was spoiled quickly. I could get used to this.
One of our guides,Scott teams up with Phill for an after dinner horse shoe match.
Andrew and Nick were tough competition
Food tastes better when you’re camping – not sure why, but it always does. This meal would have tasted great anywhere, but out in the wilds of Alaska – it was a feast fit for a king. No one left the table hungry this night – or any night. I was ready for nap time, but a few guests and guides decided to play horseshoes. It was a lively game and it looked like everyone was having fun. For me – it was time to lay down and rest after a hard day of fishing.
Hard to believe this was only our second day of fishing. It seemed like we had been here for weeks. We fit right into the routine and fished, and fished and fished. There were so many opportunities for different species, it was amazing. I would not call it easy fishing – (trout pond easy), but I would not call it difficult either. The more angling skills you had, the more fish you were going to catch and land. I suspect a novice would do well here too. With a little instruction, there are ample nibblers to keep everyone happy.
It was as hard as you wanted to make it. If you were into more of a fishing challenge – then mousing was your game. If you wanted to catch more fish – then egg and flesh flies were the ticket. Certainly something for everyone at every skill level. The guides were extremely helpful with fly suggestions, tippets, knots – whatever would make for a better experience. They would be quick to tie on your fly, or let you handle your own tackle. They figured out what was needed for each situation – helpful, but not overly so.
This day our guide was Owen – one of the senior guides. His expertise with the fishing and wildlife was enormous. He was a pleasure to be with. Owen’s experience showed – as he was constantly putting us on fish.
Owen pushes the boat through a tight side channel.
A close up look at a Leopard Rainbow.
Morning fog made for a chilly boat ride. Owen took us way upriver. The scenery and river changed as we gained elevation. We could see the Eek mountains in the background and the vegetation was different. There didn’t seem to be as many trout way upriver, but they were a little bigger.
The Dollies up here were more in their spawning colors and were a bit larger.
After a cold and damp boat ride a hot cup of coffee was rejuvenating. A few casts and some nice dollies got our hearts pumping again. Fishing was HOT!! I’m not sure fishing is always this good, but it seemed liked every cast that was placed correctly was rewarded with a take. This is a great way to hone your hook setting skills. Nibble – set, nibble set… not quite as easy as it sounds, but the more you do it – the better you get. I’m sure all this practice will pay big dividends back in the real world fishing for trout in or local rivers.
Almost all our fishing was catch and release, however this day we kept a Silver Salmon for the smoker. Clint would soak it overnight and smoke it the next day. This would become part of our dinner appetizer.
An Arctic Char in spawning colors.
This rainbow is ready to land.
We caught a silver Salmon for the smoker.
Another wonderful day and a different guide putting us on fish. Isaak went above and beyond the call of duty here. It’s hard to tell from the photo, but the river was very swift at this point. I was only up to my knees and had a hard time holding my position. The trout had wrapped itself around a root wad and was not about to budge. Isaak spent several minutes working the line from around the tangle of branches. He got it loose and the fight continued downstream. It was a nice fish that was great not to lose. Way to go Isaak!
Every guide was different and they all had interesting stories and experiences to share. Having a different guide each day was a great opportunity to enjoy each unique personality. Their experience levels ranged from over 20 years, to just a few. It didn’t make much difference as far as the fishing went, as they all were very competent and enthusiastic. Their dedication and love for the sport showed. You can’t fake that.
I have a rainbow that found a log to wrap around. Isaak wasn’t about to let this fish win. Though that looks like a net in Isaak’s hand, it is actually a tree limb that my line and fish were wrapped around.
This is a nice fish that did NOT get away.
Since they do not use nets, a guide sure helps in landing these trout.
The Tundra was awesome It was nothing like we had ever experienced. The ground was like walking on a fluffy mattress. Susan found an area where the top layer had split – she put her hand in there and could feel the ice below.
Tundra lichens.
Andrew and Nick were tough competition
The Tundra was awesome It was nothing like we had ever experienced. The ground was like walking on a fluffy mattress. Susan found an area where the top layer had split – she put her hand in there and could feel the ice below.
The Arctic Tundra is an amazing place. It is squishy, but not wet. Only a few feet down you will find permafrost. Only shallow rooted plants grow in this environment. There are many kinds of lichens and lots of blueberries. You can see in the photo above how the top layer is sloughing off. These section end up in the river and the larger ones often make nice structure for trout to use. There seemed to be a trout sitting in front of or on the side of every one in the river – a great place to throw the mouse.
Although the fishing was incredible, it was nice to take the occasional break and see some of the unique natural beauty this far north. All the guides were very willing to share their knowledge of this unique environment.
We never ran into any bears, though we could smell them on occasion as we were floating down the river. Scott pointed out that they smell like a wet dog that has rolled in dead fish. Ummm – a lovely musky odor that is unmistakable. We did see one bear at a distance, but he wasn’t hanging around, so we didn’t really get a good look at him.
Scott took Susan on another Tundra walk – on a horn hunt. Not sure how we would get these home, Susan insisted on bringing this nice rack back to camp.
Big bear tracks. We were glad to see only tracks from this large bruin and not the real thing.
On the edge of the Tundra here, you can see the edges sloughing off. There are swallow’s nests in the soft soil on the Tundra’s edge.
The Duncan camp crew made sure all the guests were well fed and they had a fun time doing it. They were genuinely having a good time and it showed. The mood was contagious. The guests were having a blast too. Of course it was a little easier to have fun while someone else does all the cooking and cleaning.
The guide crew/cooks/waiters/dishwashers always seemed to be having a good time. They even made washing dishes and cleaning up fun.
Fresh made deli sandwiches, chips, fruit, cookies and soft drinks made for a hearty lunch.
New York steak – cooked to perfection. Mashed potatoes with gravy, green beans, fresh made dinner rolls.
The Duncan camp crew made sure all the guests were well fed and they had a fun time doing it. They were genuinely having a good time and it showed. The mood was contagious. The guests were having a blast too. Of course it was a little easier to have fun while someone else does all the cooking and cleaning.
These trout don’t come in easily
and they are not easy to handle
but they are sure worth it.
It was almost quitting time, so we decided to try our luck at catching one last silver salmon. Adam pulled us into a side pool where the salmon like to hang out. It was about 15 feet deep with little current – more like a big wide pond. We could see a few Silvers and lots of Sockeye. On about my third cast – a large sockeye in spawning colors grabbed my flashy pink fly. This one had started to color up, so I thought this would be easy. Not exactly what I was looking for, but everyone says they are fierce fighters. A lot more fierce than I realized – way more.
The first 3 runs were strong – stronger than I thought they would be. It was nice to hear the reel sing. Adam said let’s see if we can land him now. I brought him close, but the fish had other ideas. I wasn’t ready for the next run – stronger than any of the previous. (I thought they were supposed to get less and less powerful.) This last run was powerful and fast – so fast that my reel handle battered my fingers and knuckles bloody. It hurt, I was bleeding but wow was this fun! Adam said, “Whoa – that was some run!.” We were both laughing at my bleeding hand. Not sure how often the guides see this, but it was a first for me. Kind of like a badge of honor – at least that is what I told myself to take my mind off the pain.
So now Adam says he must be finished. Hmmm – I am not so sure. This time as I bring him close, I grasped the line and rod – above the reel. I wasn’t about to get another knuckle buster lesson. He made one more powerful run – this time snapping my 8 weight Sage SP 3 piece at the first ferrule. It was my own fault for holding the line tight. Adam grabbed the line and dragged the fish in – a very large Sockeye – over 10 lbs (estimated by Adam.) Susan took a photo and Adam released the fish.
Now Adam, Susan and I were all laughing even harder – me holding my broken rod with my throbbing, bloody hand. I could not have scripted a better scenario. What a great way to end the trip – getting my butt kicked by a salmon – a Sockeye at that!
These trout don’t come in easily
There is a lot of fight in these fish…do not underestimate their power
Heading back to camp for the last night.
View from the co-pilot’s seat – that was a fun seat. Since there was no co-pilot, the pilot asked if anyone wanted to ride next to him. He didn’t have to ask me twice.
Our bags were unloaded at the Bethell airport.
All the boats caravan for the botat ride back to Quinahagak.
The week went fast – a lot faster than I thought it would. I didn’t want to go home. One week wasn’t long enough. I wanted more nights in the food tent. I wanted more Rainbows on the mouse.
It’s all about the fishing…
I want to go back.
Guides
Clint
Owen
Scott
Isaac
Adam (Little)
Adam (Big)
Mark
Kirk
Mojo
Guests
Larry and Rankin
Linda and Darell
Nick And Elaine
Phil and Andrew
Mojo
The host, the guides and the guests – we could not have asked for better! The Duncans truly have an impressive operation, it far exceeded our expectations. They were very organized and made the needs of their guests a top priority.
Oh and the fishing… it’s all about the fishing. Fishing is the main reason we all make the trek to the wilds of Alaska. All the other things – the food, the shelter, the service, the scenery make the experience complete, but it really is all about the fishing. The Kanektok River Leopard Rainbow is without a doubt the greatest of all trout species. It is big, aggressive and beautiful. All the attributes one wants in a fish. The fact that it will eat a mouse on the surface and fights like crazy only add to the appeal of this wonderful trout.
Thanks for taking this virtual trip with us on Alaska’s Kanektok River with Dave Duncan and Son’s.